The Most Interesting Part of an NCL Hawaiian Cruise May Not Be in Hawaii

When Norwegian Cruise Line created the original itineraries for their Hawaiian cruises which sailed round trip from Honolulu, in order to comply with US law, they had to include a foreign port in itinerary. For that port, they chose Fanning Island (the nearest foreign port to the isolated fiftieth state) which is the closest foreign port. (If you are looking for Fanning on a map, it is in the Kiribati Republic, only about 3 miles from the equator and 153 miles from Christmas Island.)

Other than a supply ship that visits three or four times a year, NCL ships are the only ones that call there, so it is almost untouched by much of modern life as we know it. In many ways it is like stepping back to Hawaii of a hundred years ago.

For passengers on NCL ships, it can be a wonderful day on a literally unspoiled beach, a fascinating look at something that resembles Hawaii the way it used to be, or a heartwarming visit with some children who are as interested in you and what you have as you are in them.

Unfortunately there isn't a a wealth of information about the stop, other than possibly saying brochure descriptions saying things like "unspoiled beach" and then letting passengers equate it mentally to other private islands cruise lines have developed in the Caribbean. Passengers going ashore with that image tend to be disappointed, because Fanning hasn't been developed at all by NCL. Some come away saying there's nothing there, because there aren't the types of facilities found on Caribbean private islands. (It is truly an unspoiled beach.)

Because of Fanning's 1200-mile distance from Hawaii, the call there takes a two days' sail each way, plus the time there, so it wasn't fitting well into the 7-day cruises, especially for passengers who primarily want to spend time in Hawaii. Since the NCL America ships in Hawaii are US-flagged, there is no need for them to include Fanning Island in their itinerary. But Norwegian Wind's longer 10- and 11-night cruises were tailor-made for the Fanning call, which, for many, became the highlight of Norwegian Star's itinerary.

If you really want some beach time, you can get it at Fanning. You tender ashore in large 250-passenger tenders NCL has based on Fanning Island, operated by some residents NCL now employs. They can have everyone off the ship in about an hour. (Of course people aren't really waiting an hour. They trickle over to the island after they have breakfast.)

NCL takes everything ashore they are going to need for the day (the food, the drink, the supplies), and brings it all back to the ship at the end of the day. Nothing is left, not even the garbage.

NCL sets up shop on the beach with a bar, a barbeque buffet, games, music, and almost everything most people would want for a day on the beach (including portable restrooms, and the only restroom facilities on the island).

You may have heard stories about the pesky flies that descend on the beach as soon as NCL breaks out the food. They aren't really a problem, unless you happen to be holding food, and then they find you instantly. NCL tried various methods to solve the fly problem, including huge fans to blow them away and several chemical solutions before finally solving the problem last year, and passengers can now look forward a pretty much bug-free day at the beach. 

NCL's third large tender (200 passengers), has a diving platform attached, so that has opened up new possibilities for snorkeling excursions in the lagoon and in the open ocean. Those have been proving a hit with passengers who regularly report seeing large hammerhead sharks, very big manta rays and lots of sea turtles.

If you are really looking for an unspoiled beach, NCL has another one, Napali Beach. They take nothing there except floats and beach chairs. (There isn't even a restroom.) You tender there from the main facilities, and there is a $10 charge, primarily to limit the demand.

The beach experience is like few you will experience elsewhere. Bar waitress Mirela Cretu from Romania told us that she looks forward to the times when her schedule works out where she has an afternoon off on a day when Norwegian Star calls at Fanning Island and she can go ashore.

"I had heard about the beautiful water in Hawaii," she told CND, "and it is very beautiful green and blue, but it's nothing like at Fanning Island. It's so clear there! When I stand in the water," motioning above her waist, "I can see all the way to the bottom. I've never seen anything like it."

For an entirely different experience, you can rent bicycles for about $10 per hour to explore other parts of the island. This is the part of your time at Fanning Island that can be the most interesting part of your entire cruise.

The footprint-shaped Fanning Island has a population of about 1,600, but the people from the cruise ship only regularly see about fifty or sixty. The other residents just tend to their business either out of lack of interest or shyness; NCL doesn't know.

It is a big day when a ship comes to call, so they close the schools when an NCL ship is in port. The ones who are interested in the visitors come down to where the tenders land, and various groups sing and dance for the passengers.

As the calls became more regular, more and more groups came to perform, so NCL has asked the tribal elders to work it out so that not more than three groups perform each week, and they have complied.

The people do it not because they want to get paid, but because they like to do it. They have figured out, however, that if they put a basket down in front of them, passengers will drop dollar bills into it.

They then get this money, but they're not exactly sure what it's all about. Typical of new "prosperity" on Fanning, Norwegian Star Hotel Director James Deering told us of seeing a little girl, about 6 or 7, wearing a grass skirt (it's not just for the tourists; that's what they really wear) with flowers in her hair, walking along a few weeks ago. In her hand she had a roll of dollar bills, and she was counting them one by one. She didn't really know what they were, or what they were good for, but she knew she had a lot of them, and she wanted to be sure she knew how many.

A problem the residents are running into is that the official currency of the island is the Australian dollar, but they only use them for purchases from the supply ship that comes three times a year, bringing rice, beer and a few other staples they don't otherwise have on the island.

Some of the islanders have made the connection that the US dollars could be used like the Australian dollars for these purchases, and somehow they can be converted. Deering told us they asked if the ship's purser could help with that. Not having much occasion to have Australian dollars aboard, Deering told them they only had a limited supply, but they would change as much as they could. How many did they have to change? They dumped out the stash that had been built up from recent Norwegian Star calls, and they totaled more than $75,000, a bit more than the purser was prepared to change.

It's not all about money, even though there is a new interest in it on the island. Most passengers who interact with the local people spend most of their time with the very engaging children. Most are curious about the people from the ship and even though they don't speak English, a rapport quickly develops.

Having been clued in, many people bring little gifts for the children, who really don't have many material things. If you plan to bring little gifts, bring things that any small child would like. There are two important things to remember, however. One is that it should not be electric or require any batteries, for obvious reasons. The other big no-no is that you shouldn't bring any sugar-laden snacks. The concept of oral hygiene is one that is foreign to the islanders, and there is no dentist on the island (or available), so while the kids enjoy these, they would just cause problems down the road. If you do want to bring sweets, make sure they are sugar-free. Other kinds of snack foods would be just as welcome.

For those who would like to see a bit more of the island and the residents' way of life, NCL has organized free walking tours of the island, led by one of the residents who speaks quite good English.

The tours run between 20 and 40 minutes, and passengers should expect to tip the guide literally a couple of bucks (not more than five), but it's not really expected. Whatever they get they are happy with.

The NCL crew members have taken the children to heart too. Through their personal donations (with a little help from the corporate office in Miami), they have paid for a new elementary school building for the kids. (It's not elaborate; nothing on Fanning Island is.) In appreciation, the islanders named the school the NCL School.

It not just a case of donating money, either. Many have taken a personal interest in the kids. A while back, an amateur magician was sailing aboard Norwegian Star as a passenger. The crew members heard about it and asked him to go to the school on the island to perform for the children. The children had never seen anything like it before and were delighted. The magician was probably just as pleased, because it's not often he gets such an enthusiastic audience. We're told he was a sensation that will be talked about for a long time on the island.

Corporately, the line is in the beginning phase of trying to help the island with medical services. A visit to the "hospital" (a one room cement block building with all the windows broken out) shortly after Norwegian Star started calling at Fanning found only a metal table in the center of the room where all services were performed by the untrained local man who tries to administer medical care when absolutely necessary. A look in the supply cabinets found not one instrument that wasn't rusted, and the most recent expiration date on any of the medicine was 1988.

Most passengers aboard the NCL ships have realized what a unique experience they can have at Fanning Island. No doubt, with the regular calls it will bring some changes to the island, but NCL works to minimize those.

Any changes do come slowly. James Deering recently told CND about finding a 1945 copy of National Geographic that had an article about Fanning Island. As someone who goes there most every week, he wanted to see how different it looked from what he sees every week. "Many of the photos," he said, "looked as if we took them last week."

If you find Fanning Island on your NCL itinerary, it could well be the highlight of your trip.

Napali Beach is one of the truly unspoiled beaches on Fanning Island. But Napali is only part of the Fanning story.

For most people, their visit to Fanning Island starts here at the dock where NCL's tenders land. 

NCL now has three large tenders based at Fanning Island which can take all passengers to the island in about an hour. 

Above is the main beach at Fanning Island with one of Norwegian Star's rescue craft shown in the foreground.

NCL takes everything to the island in the morning, and sets up the food, the music, and the beach equipment. When they leave at the end of the day, they take everything with them, including the garbage.

The residents set up shop with a straw market where they sell local handicrafts at very reasonable prices.

When an NCL ship comes to call, it is a big day on Fanning Island - so big they even close the schools. 

Many residents - including the kids - enjoy performing for the passengers. They enjoy it so much that for a while they had too many groups performing. NCL now has an agreement with the tribal elders where no more than three groups perform during each call.

If you want to spend time on a truly unspoiled beach, there is Napali Beach, which is set apart from the main beach where most passengers go. NCL tenders passengers there at a cost of $10 which is mainly to limit demand. Only about 200 passengers are allowed there, so it's never crowded.  

They take the chairs, tables, umbrellas and floats there, nothing else. If you want to get away from it all, Napali Beach is the place. No, your cell phone won't even work there.

NORWEGIAN WIND SHORE EXCURSIONS at FANNING ISLAND, REPUBLIC OF KIRIBATI

NAPALI BEACH GETAWAY FAN-001
Approximate Duration: All Day
Have you ever dreamed of your own exclusive Exotic Island for the day? No phones ringing, no lines, no crowds this break is what you need. We have been allowed to arrange for a limited number of guests to visit this truly idyllic beach on a separate island. You will probably rave about it for the rest of the cruise. We include a complimentary beach chair for your enjoyment during your stay. A limited supply of hammocks and floating beach mats are available on a first come first served basis. You will also receive a Dive-In Logo T-Shirt (L or XL) upon completion of this tour. Regular tender service will be made available for you from Fanning Island side to the atoll. Don’t miss out on this great opportunity of ultimate peace and quiet!
Note: There are no toilet or food facilities available on Napali. An approximate 10-minute walk is required from the tender drop-off point/area to Napali Beach (unpaved trail walk way) The waters at Napali Beach are shallow, sandy bottom, so there is no snorkeling available from this point. For any water sport activities you will be required to present your ship room key card. Departures for Napali are based on ship’s arrival. You will not need a tender ticket; your Napali Beach ticket will also be your tender ticket to go ashore.